Scotland · Road trip
Scotland's Atlantic Coast
Distance
640 miles
Suggested duration
8–12 days
Best time to go
May to early June, or September
The west coast of Scotland is the most rewarding drive in Britain and the least forgiving of a rushed itinerary. Roads narrow to a single lane with passing places, ferries run to their own timetable, and the weather rewrites the day without asking.
Plan for shorter driving days than the map suggests. Fifty miles here can take three hours once you factor in passing places, sheep and the fact that you will stop constantly.
The route
5 overnight stops
359 miles of driving legs
Overnight stops
- 01
Glen Coe
Free-draining car parks; arrive early, leave before dusk.
- 02
Applecross
Book the campsite. The Bealach na Bà is not for long overhangs.
- 03
Gairloch
Sheltered pitches and a genuinely good chip shop.
- 04
Achmelvich
White sand, cold water, patchy signal.
- 05
Durness
Cliff-top pitches and the turning point for most trips.
Highlights
- The Bealach na Bà climb to Applecross on a clear morning
- Sea eagles over Loch Ewe
- Handa Island ferry and the seabird cliffs
- Sandwood Bay, a four-mile walk from the nearest road
Practical information
- Fuel gaps of 40+ miles north of Ullapool. Fill up at every second opportunity.
- Wild camping in a vehicle is not covered by Scottish access rights — use aires and campsites.
- Midges peak from mid-June to August. A head net costs less than a bad night.
- Many single-track roads have soft verges; reverse to a passing place rather than pulling onto grass.
Connectivity
- EE has the widest coverage in the north-west; Vodafone is patchy beyond Ullapool.
- A roof-mounted MIMO antenna makes the difference between one bar and usable 4G in glens.
- Satellite is worth considering if you need to work for more than a few days at a time.